Washing a linen shirt is easier than its reputation suggests: 40 degrees Celsius, gentle spin cycle, and onto a hanger while still damp. If you do this, the shirt will get softer with every wash – and you will avoid both shrinkage and hard creases.
In this guide, we go through how often the shirt needs to be washed, which temperature and program to use, how to remove stains on collars and cuffs, how to dry it without it shrinking, and how to avoid ironing more than necessary.
Contents
- How often should you wash a linen shirt?
- Temperature and program
- Detergent, fabric softener, and bleaching
- Stains on collars and cuffs
- Drying without shrinking the shirt
- Smoothing out creases – or leaving them be
- Quick guide: how to wash your linen shirt
- Our current favorites
- Frequently asked questions
- Summary
How often should you wash a linen shirt?
Less often than you think. Linen breathes, dries quickly, and stays fresh longer than cotton. A shirt you have worn on a cool day over a tank top or T-shirt can often just be left to air out overnight. However, if you have worn it directly against your skin on a hot day, it needs a wash – sweat left in the fabric will yellow over time, especially under the arms and in the collar.
A good rule of thumb is to wash it after one to three wears, depending on the heat and how close to the body the shirt sits. This saves both the fabric and the color.
Temperature and program
Always start with the care label in the side seam – it takes precedence over all general advice. If it says nothing else, 40 degrees Celsius works for most linen shirts. Dark and brightly colored shirts are best washed at 30 degrees to keep the color longer. White shirts in pure linen can often handle 60 degrees, but this is rarely necessary.
Choose a gentle program or delicate cycle and fill the machine no more than halfway. Linen needs plenty of water and room to move, otherwise creases will be pressed into the fabric. Lower the spin speed to around 800 rpm – high spin speeds are the most common cause of creases that are impossible to get out. Unbutton all buttons, including those on the collar and cuffs, and turn colored shirts inside out.
If the shirt is a linen blend with cotton or viscose, the same advice applies, but check the label extra carefully: viscose is more sensitive to heat. Read more in our guide how to wash linen, which covers all linen garments.
Detergent, fabric softener, and bleaching
Use a mild, liquid detergent without bleach. Detergent for whites often contains optical brighteners that make natural-colored and colored linen look patchy, so save that for shirts that are truly pure white. Better to dose a little too little than too much – detergent residues make the fabric stiff.
Skip the fabric softener. It creates a film over the fibers, making the linen breathe less well and absorb moisture less effectively. Linen softens by itself with washing and use. Chlorine and other strong bleaching agents weaken the fibers and should not be used at all. More advice on linen washing can be found at Husmorstipset.
Stains on collars and cuffs
The collar and cuffs are the parts that get dirty first, and a standard wash is not always enough. Dampen the dirty edge, rub in a little liquid detergent or gall soap with your fingers, and let it work for 15–20 minutes before the shirt goes into the machine. Do not scrub hard with a brush – linen fibers are strong but can become fuzzy from harsh mechanical treatment.
Treat yellow streaks under the arms in the same way. Deal with the stain as soon as you can: a stain that has dried in with heat is much harder to remove.
Drying without shrinking the shirt
Shake out the shirt thoroughly as soon as the machine is finished, gently pull on seams, button plackets, and the collar, and hang it on a wide hanger. Button the top button so the collar keeps its shape. Let it dry at room temperature, and avoid direct strong sunlight if it is colored.
Avoid the tumble dryer. It is the heat there – not the wash – that makes linen shrink the most, and tumbling wears out the fibers. Linen that has not been pre-washed can shrink by a few percent during the first wash, so be extra careful then. More about this can be found in the guide does linen shrink?
Smoothing out creases – or leaving them be
A linen shirt shouldn't be pin-straight. The slightly wrinkled look is part of the fabric's character and looks relaxed with both chinos and jeans. If you want it smoother, iron it while it is still damp, on high heat, and preferably from the inside out so the fabric doesn't become shiny. A steamer also works well and is gentler on buttons and seams.
The entire technique, step-by-step, can be found in ironing linen. If you want to know why linen is so cool to wear, you can read about which fabric is the coolest.
Quick guide: how to wash your linen shirt
| Step | Do this | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| Before washing | Unbutton all buttons, pre-treat collar and cuffs | Turn colored shirts inside out |
| Temperature | 40 degrees, 30 for dark colors | The care label in the garment always comes first |
| Program | Gentle cycle, half-full machine | Spin at around 800 rpm |
| Detergent | Mild and liquid, no bleach | No fabric softener |
| Drying | Shake out and hang on a wide hanger | No tumble dryer |
| After-care | Iron or steam while damp | A few creases belong to linen |
Our current favorites
Three linen shirts that are easy to care for and wear:
- Vintage linen shirt, long-sleeved – airy shirt in warm colors that works just as well with chinos as with shorts.
- Tailored linen shirt with a mandarin collar – the white classic with an open collar, stylish with light-colored trousers.
- Classic linen shirt with a tailored fit – a clean everyday shirt that works all year round.
If you prefer a more relaxed model, there is also the striped linen shirt with a mandarin collar, and for women, a linen blazer with a relaxed fit which is washed according to the same principles.
Frequently asked questions
At what temperature should you wash a linen shirt?
40 degrees works for most. Choose 30 degrees for dark and bright colors. Always follow the care instructions in the garment if it states otherwise.
Does a linen shirt shrink in the wash?
Linen that has not been pre-washed can shrink by a few percent during the first wash. After that, it is mainly the tumble dryer and overly high temperatures that shrink the shirt. Wash at 40 degrees and hang to dry, and it will maintain its size.
Can you wash a linen shirt at 60 degrees?
A white shirt in pure linen can often handle it, but colored shirts will fade, and linen blends can shrink. Check the label, and choose 40 degrees if you are unsure.
Should you use fabric softener for linen?
No. Fabric softener leaves a film on the fibers that makes the fabric breathe and absorb moisture less well. Linen becomes soft on its own after a few washes.
Can you tumble dry a linen shirt?
Preferably not. The heat shrinks the fabric and makes the creases harder to get out. Hang the shirt on a hanger directly after washing instead.
Must you iron a linen shirt?
No, a few creases are part of the look. If you want it smooth, iron or steam it while it is still slightly damp.
Summary
Wash your linen shirt at 40 degrees on a gentle program, in a half-full machine, and with a low spin speed. Use mild detergent without bleach, skip the fabric softener, and pre-treat collars and cuffs. Shake out the shirt, hang it on a hanger, and leave the tumble dryer alone. It will keep its shape and just become softer over the years.
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