A trench coat is a light, water-repellent coat with lapels, front buttons, and – in its classic form – a belt at the waist. It is neither a winter coat nor a raincoat, but the garment in between: what you put on when it is too warm for wool and too windy for just a blazer.
In this guide, we go through what makes a coat a trench coat, where it comes from, what it is made of, whether it can be worn without a belt, how it differs from other coats, and what time of year it is suitable for – plus our favorites right now.
Contents
- What is a trench coat?
- The details that make a trench coat
- Why is it called a trench coat?
- What is a trench coat made of?
- Trench coat without a belt – is it possible?
- When is a trench coat suitable?
- Quick comparison
- Our favorites right now
- Frequently asked questions
- Summary
What is a trench coat?
A trench coat is an unlined or thinly lined coat in a tightly woven fabric that resists wind and light rain. It usually reaches from the middle of the thigh to just below the knee, features lapels and a collar that can be turned up, and closes with buttons – classically in two rows.
What distinguishes it from other coats is that it is built for transitional weather. It does not provide much warmth on its own, but it blocks out the wind and is spacious enough for a sweater or blazer underneath. This makes it one of the most used outer garments during the Swedish spring and autumn.
The details that make a trench coat
Not all trench coats have all the details, but the more of them a coat has, the more classic it is:
- Double-breasted – two rows of buttons and wide lapels that can be buttoned up against the throat.
- Waist belt – in the same fabric as the coat, often with a buckle.
- Epaulets – the small buttoned straps on the shoulders.
- Storm flap – an extra flap of fabric over one side of the chest, which allows rain to run off instead of in.
- Cuff straps – bands at the wrist that can be tightened against the wind.
- Back yoke – a loose piece of fabric over the shoulder blades that channels water away.
- Back vent – so you can walk and cycle without the coat feeling tight.
The color is traditionally beige or sand, but black, navy blue, and olive green are just as common today. If you want help choosing a model, length, and color, we have a buying guide for women's trench coats.
Why is it called a trench coat?
Trench is the English word for a military dugout. The coat got its name during the First World War, when British officers wore it in the trenches as a lighter alternative to heavy wool coats. The fabric that made it possible was gabardine – a dense, water-repellent weave that the English tailor Thomas Burberry developed in the late 19th century.
Several of the details are legacies from that time. The epaulets held rank insignia and straps in place, and the storm flap and yoke were there for the same reasons as today: to keep the rain out. After the war, the officers took the coats home with them, and the trench coat became a civilian garment that has barely changed since.
What is a trench coat made of?
The classic trench coat is sewn in cotton gabardine: tightly woven cotton that breathes, blocks the wind, and resists a light rain shower. Today, cotton blended with polyester is at least as common – it wrinkles less, dries faster, and costs less. Pure polyester models are the lightest and withstand the most moisture, but have the poorest breathability.
Important to know: a trench coat is water-repellent, not waterproof. It can handle drizzle and a short shower, but in persistent rain, it will eventually become soaked. If you need a garment for real rainy weather, a raincoat or a coat with a hood, such as the waterproof coat with hood, is a better choice.
Trench coat without a belt – is it possible?
Yes, in two ways. Firstly, there are trench coats that are sewn completely without a belt: straight, often single-breasted models that fall cleanly from the shoulder. They look sharper and more minimalist and are easier to wear over a blazer. One example is our trench coat with notched collar, which fastens with a single row of buttons and lacks a belt.
Secondly, you can wear a trench coat with a belt as if it didn't have one. There are three common solutions for this:
- Tie the belt at the back. A simple knot in the back pulls in the waist slightly and keeps the ends out of the way – the coat can hang open in the front.
- Tuck the ends into the pockets. The quickest way when you are wearing the coat open.
- Remove the belt entirely. Works if the belt loops are discreet; otherwise, it will look like something is missing.
And when you do use the belt: tie it in a loose knot rather than fastening it in the buckle – it looks more relaxed and sits better. More tricks can be found in the guide coat with belt.
When is a trench coat suitable?
The trench coat is a garment for approximately 8 to 18 degrees Celsius – that is, most of the Swedish spring and autumn. On a mild autumn day, it is enough over a shirt or a thin sweater. When it gets colder, you layer up from the inside: a knitted sweater, a blazer, or a thin down vest underneath means it will last well into October. More on that technique can be found in layering.
It works with almost everything – jeans and sneakers, suit trousers, skirts, and dresses. If you wear it over a dress, a good rule of thumb is that the coat should be either clearly longer or clearly shorter than the dress, like the short trench coat with contrast trim; read more in coat with dress. If you want a longer model that covers the entire skirt, there is the guide long trench coat for women.
Elle shows six ways to style a trench coat, and Femina has collected the season's trench coats for women.
Quick comparison
| Garment | Material and feel | Best suited for |
|---|---|---|
| Trench coat | Tightly woven cotton or blend, light and water-repellent | Spring and autumn, wind and light rain |
| Wool coat | Wool or wool blend, thick and warm | Late autumn and winter |
| Overcoat | Heavier fabric, straight and spacious over blazer | Cold days, dressed up |
| Raincoat | Waterproof fabric with taped seams and hood | Persistent rain |
Our favorites right now
Three trench coats – the classic, the beltless, and the colored one:
- Elegant Trench Coat | Double-breasted Design with Adjustable Belt – long and double-breasted with a belt, epaulets, and cuff straps: all the classic details.
- Elegant Trench Coat for Women with Notched Collar – single-breasted and straight without a belt, easy to wear over a blazer.
- Elegant Trench Coat for Women with Wind Guard and Waist Belt – knee-length with storm flap and belt, for those who want a trench coat in a color other than beige.
Frequently asked questions
What is a trench coat?
A trench coat is a light, water-repellent coat in a tightly woven fabric with lapels, buttons in the front, and usually a belt at the waist. It is made for spring and autumn.
Why is it called a trench coat?
Trench means military dugout in English. The coat was worn by British officers in the trenches during the First World War and got its name from there.
Can you wear a trench coat without a belt?
Yes. There are models designed without a belt, and on a coat with a belt, you can tie it in the back, tuck the ends into the pockets, or remove it entirely.
Is a trench coat waterproof?
No, it is water-repellent. It can handle drizzle and short showers, but will get wet in persistent rain.
Is a trench coat warm?
Not particularly. It protects against wind but has no built-in insulation, so the warmth comes from what you wear underneath.
What is the difference between a trench coat and a coat?
A trench coat is a type of coat. The word "coat" is a collective noun for longer outer garments, while a trench coat is the light, water-repellent model with lapels and usually a belt.
Summary
A trench coat is a light, water-repellent coat with roots in the trenches of the First World War. You recognize it by its lapels, buttons, belt, and details such as epaulets and a storm flap. It is perfectly fine to wear without a belt – choose a model designed that way, or tie the belt in the back. And remember that it is made for transitional weather: it blocks out the wind, but you have to provide the warmth yourself.
Ready to find yours? Explore our trench coats for women and women's coats – with free shipping within Sweden.
